Day 3

Last couple of days were a washout connectivity wise....

Day 3 (Tues 26 July)
Spent the morning still in Thimphu. Tobgay and Tinley (our driver) took me to the National Memorial Chorten (temple), a few handicraft places (to perform the Singaporean ritual of making sure the luggage is amply stuffed), a nuns' monastery, and a number of government/national administration buildings.

What stayed with me was this: the National Library held many books and records of historical and religous significance, which is entirely important, but only two half-filled 'Ikea' shelves on DDC 500 Science and 600 Technology. Got into discussion with Tobgay about the education system, schools and facilities, access to books, PCs, etc, etc...He thinks it's alright in the major cities but isn't sure elsewhere. On our return to Paro, we fortuitously passed by the primary and middle school his 3 daughters attend. He's kindly arranging a visit this Friday to give me a glimpse into things....

The journey from Thimphu to Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan, was an adventure in itself. There is only one highway and possible route traversing east-west. The 76km 'highway' is probably most objectively described as a mostly paved, perilous mountain road largely in state of disrepair (ie axle damaging potholes ubiquitous, vehicle swallowing sinkholes quite a few). In most places the road is very barely just wide enough for one large vehicle and a small one to pass - so there's really no need for lane markings as you'll never know which is passing on which side. During this monsoon season, fresh landslides that pockmark the route at rather regular intervals add to the thrill/fear factor.

While I enjoy driving and would like to think I am quite good at it, this trip has been a humbling experience. Having survived the Thimphu-Punakha journey twice (yes, there and back), am convinced that the Bhutanese are exceptionally gifted in hand-eye coordination (first evidence of this was at archery). Passing the driving test must involve a standard maneuver of keeping half the tyre width on the edge of the road (also the mountain precipice) while negotiating hairpin bends at straight-line speeds - Tinley does this effortlessly, and I had full view of his display of skills riding shotgun.... There are also many intricate customs, gestures and signals that help keep the motorists alive; such as flashing lights to allow overtaking, letting vehicle going uphill have right of way, etc. Most times though, the only thing that really seemed to matter is the universal pecking order ie 10 ton trucks, buses, offroaders/SUVs, regular cars, Suzuki Marutis....

Tipple report of the day: the Druk 11000, as the label says, is 'Super Strong Beer'. Declared alcohol content is less than 8%, but locals seem to think it's more like 8-14%. The real sly and insidious ploy, me thinks, is in how it tastes. It is like a flat, diluted pilsner that gets you gulping as you try to detect some flavour in the ale....then before you know it...

Tuesday is supposed to be a dry day. However, on excuse that the bloody wifi failed to work, they were more than happy to be flexible...did say I think the Bhutanese are nice people :)

Final note: seeing my despair when the wifi failed to work, Tobgay without hesitation offered use of his spanking new notebook (as it has a pre-paid calling card connection), no password needed, no questions asked.....very trusting, very kind